CANINE CUISINE:
Home Cooking for Boxers from Dale’s Kitchen
by Dale Ulmer,
co-owner/administrator of the BOXER MAILING LIST
Toby
and Lily, my two dogs, are my third and fourth Boxers. Those that I owned earlier lived
fairly long lives by today's standards, eleven and ten years, but each of them died of a
form of cancer. Because cancer also afflicts human beings, a great deal of research has
been done on the disease. There is strong evidence that suggests that environmental
factors play a major role in the onset of many forms of cancer. Food is one such factor.
After
my second Boxer's death, I resolved to see what I could learn about dog food. I was
surprised to find very little information available on the topic. What little there was
tended to be based almost exclusively on research conducted by or funded by manufacturers
of pet food products. Not surprisingly, the conclusion of these industry sponsored studies
is what we've heard for years, that a completely balanced dry dog food is a dog's best
source of nutrition.
That
conclusion has always bothered me, and not just because of the vested interest involved in
reaching it. We know for a fact that prepared foods are not the best things for humans to
eat. In fact, many of them are pretty bad. Is it likely that dog foods are markedly
superior to products intended for human consumption? Dogs, after all, evolved as humans
did, eating a collection of meats, grains and vegetables. And, also like us, their bodies
were not designed to be maintained on an exclusive diet of fast food. That's what dog food
really is. Eventually I came across a couple of books written by veterinarians who had
found reason to distrust the conventional wisdom.
Both
of these doctors explain that the pet food industry is not subject to the kind of
regulation that's applied to suppliers of food for humans. Dog food purveyors are free to
use whatever ingredients they want to. Think about economics for a moment. Premium dog
foods sell in the range of 40 to 60 cents a pound at the wholesale level. How much of that
do you suppose manufacturers spend on advertising, shipping, packaging, sales commissions,
employee salaries, equipment maintenance and other overhead costs? There can't be much
room for profit at those prices, let alone the cost of ingredients.
When
meat animals arrive at the stockyards in less than good condition, the meat from them
cannot be sold for human consumption. Want to guess what happens to the meat from animals
who are dead, dying, disabled or diseased when they're shipped? Much of it is used in pet
food.
Both
doctors warn against using products that are based on "meat by-products" or
"meat meal." A better all inclusive term might be "cheap stuff." I
won't go into great detail here, but few people would feed these products to their dogs if
they were aware of their contents, including hair, feathers, beaks, and floor sweepings,
regardless of the source. Unfortunately, nearly all commercial foods contain one or more
of these things.
Wendell
Belfield is one of the vets referred to above. His book is How to Have a Healthier Dog,
Doubleday, 1981. The original edition is out of print, but I understand it can be ordered
fromOrthomolecular Specialties, PO Box 32232, San Jose CA 95152-2232, (408) 227-9334.
Belfield suggests trying to find a source of food that does not use meat byproducts, meat
meal or meat products from animals of questionable health. It's not easy to find such a
dog food. He does not give recipes for home made food. He does present a solid program of
vitamin and mineral supplementation aimed at remedying the deficiencies that exist in dog
food, regardless of its source.
The
other vet I'm citing is Richard Pitcairn. Dr. Pitcairn's Natural Guide to Health for
Dogs and Cats, Rodale Press, 1995 (ISBN 0-87596-243-2), is often available at public
libraries. Pitcairn argues against using commercial foods and provides a selection of
recipes for home made dog and cat foods. He also provides recommendations on supplements,
and explores other health matters.
I
raised Toby and Lily on home made food based on Pitcairn's recipes. I use a couple of his
ideas on supplementation, but rely more on Belfield's thinking in that area. In my
opinion, Pitcairn's ideas on vitamins and minerals are not as fully developed as
Belfield's. He quotes Belfield and incorporates some of his suggestions.
What
follows is a summary of the ideas I've used in feeding my dogs. I'll begin with the basic
recipe I started with:
Here's
some further information on ingredients.
Meat:
Nearly any muscle tissue meat is fine. Dogs are crazy about organs like hearts and
gizzards, but too much liver is not good. An animal's liver tends to store concentrated
pollutants.
I
buy frozen ground turkey for my dogs. The price ranges from 60 to 80 cents a pound. When
the price is low, I buy 8 or 10 cases and store it in my big freezer in the basement. I'd
buy fresh ground turkey if it were available, but, at least in this area, it isn't. Now
and then I buy a package of chicken innards as a treat. If you eat meat, leftovers and
table scraps are fine.
A
couple of times a week, I let my dogs split a can of mackerel instead of having turkey.
Grains:
Bread, rice, wheat, oatmeal, barley, etc., are good choices. Corn is more difficult for
dogs to digest, in spite of the fact that large quantities of it are found in commercial
foods, especially the cheaper ones. On average, 3 large slices of bread equal 1 cup of
cooked grain. I use a combination of cooked oatmeal and whole grain bread. Day old bread
keeps the price down, and the dogs think it's just fine. Leftover pasta works well too.
Vegetables:
Anything but onions will do. I've read that large amounts of onions appear to cause a type
of anemia in dogs. I'm not sure how much is necessary to cause trouble, but I'd rather not
take chances.
Preparation:
My original method was to make a big pot of rice a couple of times a week and store it in
plastic tubs in the refrigerator. I thawed four pounds of ground meat and a pound or two
of vegetables at a time and stored them the same way. I used a pair of 2 cup Pyrex
measuring cups as my main cooking utensils. Zapping the meat for two dogs takes just under
4 minutes in the microwave. It's done on the outside and red on the inside when it comes
out, but stirring it immediately quickly browns all of it. Then I'd warm up the vegetables
and rice and cool off the meat at the same time by mixing them all together along with the
bread.
These
days I follow the suggestion of Karla Spitzer, a member of the Boxer Mailing List, and
cook oatmeal, meat and vegetables together in a sort of extremely thick stew, but in
larger quantities. I use a 20 quart stock pot, and store the stew in plastic tubs in the
refrigerator until I need it. At mealtime, I warm each bowl of food in the microwave for a
minute to a minute and a half, add a few pieces of torn up bread and serve. My adaptation
of Karla's recipe is included below.
I
find the first method to be slightly more convenient, but the dogs prefer the second
method. Toby, my older dog, is one who will eat nearly anything, but Lily, the younger
one, is more fussy. When I cooked the ingredients separately and mixed them at mealtime,
she'd sometimes get that old "Is this all there is?" look on her face. Now that
I'm cooking everything together, Lily sometimes stares at the microwave waiting to get at
her food.
My
Boxers eat two meals a day, morning and evening. Lily gets exactly two cups of my homemade
stew, while Toby, the larger of the two, gets a slightly more generous serving. I tear up
a couple of small slices of rye bread for each of them and toss it on top of the stew.
Toby
and Lily, along with every other dog I've known, are crazy about fish. Three mornings a
week, I serve them a dish that the BML's Laura Krebill has named "Mac 'n'
mac," mackerel and macaroni. I cook four cups of macaroni (measured dry) at a
time. That's enough for two meals for each of my dogs. When it's been cooked and drained I
put half of it away in the refrigerator for a later serving and divide the remaining half
in two again. Then I split the contents of a fifteen ounce can of mackerel between the two
dog bowls, add the usual torn up bread and voila! Mac 'n' mac.
Supplements:
In the morning, I give each dog a half tablespoon of dried brewer's yeast and a 200 iu
vitamin E capsule. In the evening they each get a multiple vitamin/mineral tablet. Nearly
all of the pet supplements contain chemical preservatives, so I use multis intended for
humans instead. Except for vitamins C and E, a product called Centrum contains just the
right proportions for an adult Boxer, according to Belfield's recommendations. I buy a
cheap supermarket copy for about half the price of the name brand. Julie Jones, another
BML member, buys an inexpensive copy of Centrum from Puritan's Pride, Box 9001, Oakdale,
NY, 11769-9001, (800) 645-9584.
Each
dog also gets 1000 milligrams of sodium ascorbate powder at each meal. Sodium ascorbate is
a form of vitamin C. The more common form of vitamin C, ascorbic acid, can produce
diarrhea in some dogs. A mail order source for sodium ascorbate is Bronson's, Box 46903,
St. Louis, MO, 63146-6903, (800) 235-3200.
If
you're feeding a puppy, use a half a multiple vitamin tablet, and 100 iu of vitamin E for
the first six months. Puppies should get the full dose of vitamin C. Pups and growing dogs
can also use some additional calcium for their growing bones. I'd add a half tablespoon of
powdered bone meal, the kind sold in health food stores for human consumption, to each
meal. Bone meal has the proper blend of calcium and phosphorous.
This
feeding program is working well for me. So far, neither of my dogs has ever been visibly
sick. Both are in excellent physical condition and have glossy coats. In my opinion, the
food they eat is one of the things that's responsible for their good health. Equally
important is the fact that they're heavily exercised. They spend at least an hour each
day, year round, in vigorous off-leash running and playing with each other or with other
dogs.
Here's
my version of Karla Spitzer's recipe. It requires using a very large (20 quart) pot, or
reducing the amounts.
Heat
11 cups of water and 3/4 cup of canola oil. While the water is heating, unwrap 5 pounds of
frozen turkey and place it in the water. Turn off the heat and allow the meat to thaw.
Bake five or six large size washed potatoes (or ten or twelve small ones) in the microwave
while the meat is thawing. After the meat has thawed and been broken into tiny pieces,
turn the heat back on. When the meat begins to turn brown, stir in a can of tomatoes, a
can of carrots, a can of spinach, two cans of green beans, two cans each of kidney and
lima beans, and a couple of pounds of frozen broccoli or cauliflower. Chop the potatoes,
skins and all, and add them to the mixture along with one or two large cloves of minced
garlic. When everything comes to a boil, stir in one 42 ounce package of quick cooking
oatmeal, the kind that cooks in a minute. The mixture will be thick at this point and will
require thorough stirring to get the oatmeal evenly distributed. Simmer for fifteen
minutes before turning off the heat. Spoon the mixture into smaller containers for
refrigerator storage. (Note: The 11 cups of water called for above may vary, depending on
the quality of oatmeal used. I buy very cheap oatmeal. Other BML members who buy more
expensive name brands find that they need to use considerably more water. You may have to
do some experimenting.)
Bon appetit!
As I was preparing this article for publication in the December BU,
a few more questions about home cooking occurred to me. Since I’m a newcomer to
"home cooking for dogs," I thought other novice chefs might have the same
concerns. VZ
BU:
I've been cooking for the pooches since we discussed the subject about a month ago.
However, instead of using grain, I've been adding the meat/fish and vegetables to a
"Brand X" dogfood base, on the theory that 1) for four and sometimes five dogs,
that's easier and faster than making everything from scratch, and 2) several of my dogs go
to shows often, and their handler certainly won't cook for them there. What's your opinion
of my HALF-home-cooking?
DU:
Frankly, I think your idea is half-baked. Worse, it may be dangerous. Commercial dog food
is NOT a substitute for grain, even though the processing it undergoes gives it a similar
appearance. Commercial dog food manufacturers go on at great length about
"balanced" nutrition. A key element of what they're talking about is the meat to
grain ratio. It's appropriate in their food (by saying which, I certainly don't mean to
say that I approve of the ingredients they use to realize that ratio), but by adding a
great deal more meat and no grain to that food, you're knocking the ratio completely out
of whack. Your dogs will get far more protein than they need. Some surplus protein is
reprocessed and stored in the body as fat. A vast overload of protein places an
unnecessary burden on the kidneys. That's why I said that what you're doing may be
dangerous.
Karla
Spitzer faces the same problems with showing that you do, although probably on a smaller
scale. She cooks for her dogs at home. When they're on the road, she feeds a high quality
commercial food that is made with ingredients deemed suitable for human consumption. Your
"Brand X" is not such a product.
BU:
Am I correct in assuming that a home cooked diet requires the addition of supplements? Or
does a combo of grains, meat, and vegetables provide a "balanced" diet with all
essential vitamins and minerals?
DU:
That's largely a matter of opinion. Do you take supplements? Most people don't, and they
get along pretty well eating the same sort of foods that I feed my dogs, so I guess the
dogs would be fine too. On the other hand, I DO take supplements, and I'm convinced that
the fact that I do has much to do with the exceptional good health I've enjoyed in recent
years. I extend that logic to my dogs and give them the supplements described in my
article. The supplements the dogs get are not much different from the ones I take. :-)
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